An amazing day

Sunday 10th April
As there was no church service today, the Meschenmosers’ gave us a choice of either visiting Säntis in Switzerland or going on a boat trip on Lake Constance, the third-largest freshwater lake in Europe. We decided that visiting the Alps would be more exciting, especially as it meant travelling into Switzerland AND a boat trip!

First we drove to Friedrichshafen on Lake Constance and briefly visited the Zeppelin Museum as the ferry wasn’t due to leave for some time. We looked at the displays in the foyer. Zeppelins are still made in various sizes, some are used for tourist flights. If you look closely at the LH photo, you may be able to see a model being played on by children outside the museum.
Walking by the side of the lake, we saw a nesting swan so close to the pathway. What a brave bird to nest so close to humans in such an exposed spot!
It was a lovely calm day on the lake and we could see the Säntis in the distance. It is the highest of the Appenzell Alps at 2502 m above sea level. We had even been able to see it (just) from the Meschenmosers’ house as the sky was so clear that morning. It was fun looking back to the German side – there was a castle on the outskirts of Friedrichshafen (pic top R) - and ahead to misty Switzerland. You can see the other ferry boat heading away from the Swiss side in the photo below left. Eventually we reached Switzerland at Romanshorn, a very attractive-looking place (centre pic).
We were soon driving off the boat, and then proceeded on our way. At first we passed many orchards. The grass was full of dandelions and other flowers. We had noticed the rather (to our eyes) unkempt-looking lawns in Germany and were told that while some people have ‘English' lawns (that’s to say they keep them short!) many prefer a more natural look and enjoy the wildflowers that come up. There were certainly plenty of them! We also passed many cyclists - what hard work to climb those hills!
We passed through many towns and villages on the way to the Alps - Rorschach seemed quite large, and the houses were timbered and had shuttered windows. We saw a Zeppelin in the sky! I didn’t like St Gallen very much, it seemed quite ugly – there were lots of ultra-modern multi-storeyed buildings. Even in the older part of town, the buildings towered up 6 or 7 storeys, but at least they were more attractive to look at. It's the largest city in Eastern Switzerland.

As we drew closer to the mountains, the scenery became more and more interesting. Smaller towns and villages such as Urnäsch, Herisau and Appenzell led us closer and closer to our destination. It was so lovely to see the little mountain chalets, Brown Swiss cattle, small farms dotted all over the plentiful green grass, with dark pine forests and the snowy peaks providing a pleasing contrast.

When we arrived at the foot of the Säntis it was so awe-inspiring to stand in the road near the cable car depot and to look up the mountain (LH pic). What would it be like to go all the way up there? We were soon to find out.







It was simply amazing! From time to time we’d cross over a sheer rockface, and on all sides you could see mountains. The snow soon covered everything and we had the most incredible views in the clear air. The car park soon looked really tiny and the people like little ants. The cable car was really large and can hold up to 60 people, but it wasn’t too full that day. It was a great way to travel and not at all scary. LH picture is the view back down to the car park near the top. Centre - view from top, RH sheer face at terminal.
The terminal building has several stories and includes conference rooms, restaurants, viewing platforms and a rock and mineral collection from around the world. Unfortunately there were no examples from New Zealand.

Once we went outside, the views were absolutely stunning. In one spot a large panoramic view engraved into a metal plaque showed the peaks that are visible in six countries: Italy, Austria, France, Germany, Lichtenstein and of course Switzerland. The land slopes down towards France and Germany but we could see some of the high alps in the others. Way over in the distance we could just make out Lake Constance (LH pic). One interesting mountain with a distinctive shape was the Altmann (centre), 2,435 m above sea level, and further north is the Churfirsten group (RH pic), a range of mountains whose beautifully scalloped peaks rise up into the sky.
As the day went on, it started to cloud up a little but we had a great time. It had been a lovely warm temperature of about 20-21 deg down by the lake but was only 5 degrees up on the mountain, 2007 m above sea level. Once the clouds started to thicken, a cold wind sprung up and we soon started wanting to seek shelter.
From one side of the complex you can descend through a partial tunnel in the rock - part of the outer wall is of glass so you can see outside – or into the snow that was covering it. It was really cold in there. On the inside wall were placed various pieces of equipment used over 50 years ago by alpine guides. The tunnel leads to the mountain guide quarters. Guides have been active on the mountain for well over a century. There is are tables set out on a small terrace where you can enjoy a cup of coffee or light meal. We did just that and it was most welcome.
You could just sit back and relax, gazing at the tremendous views. Leading down from the buildings were paths leading to various places, with signposts telling you how many hours it’d take you to get to the other mountains and villages. If you want to walk/climb up or down the Säntis, it is supposed to take you 4 hours. It takes about 1/2 hour by cable car!

The complex also has an important weather station with a huge tower that was too difficult to photograph adequately (LH pic). it was interesting to look at however.
We also enjoyed watching the Alpine Jackdaws (centre) that liked visiting the outdoor restaurants and were having an amazing time soaring on the thermals up the side of the main building (RH pic).
We decided to leave around 4pm as we were starting to feel quite cold. We returned by a different route, driving around the side of the lake passing through a small section of Austria before reaching Germany again.







It was amazing how the countryside suddenly opened out into a broad, flat valley, bordered by snow-capped mountains – the Rhine. In one place we saw a cog railway that went up a steep hillside in a little gorge. I was quite surprised to see a vineyard or two in Switzerland, I'd always imagined it to be too cold! Pics: Urnäsch, Rhine valley scene, Altstadt.
It was interesting to find out that the Swiss still prefer to use their francs rather than the Euro. There is a hefty annual fee of E100 if you want to use the motorways there! It you don’t buy the ticket, it might cost you 2-300 Euros just to make one trip.
It’s often quite difficult to tell just when you cross the borders in Europe - unless your cellphone decides to tell you you've just joined a new exchange. Ours did this when we crossed from Belgium to Germany. We did notice that there were a lot of curved tops on the chimneys in Austria which was different from the Swiss architecture. Of course, place names change too, so if you know your languages, it does help. At some borders there is a police check-point but they usually only stop trucks. There was one between Austria and Germany.
We stopped to fill the car with petrol once we'd crossed into Austria. It was quite interesting to see the different prices between the diffent countries. It's cheaper to buy in Austria so many people make a special trip across the border just to fill up the car! The differences in price are caused by the way petrol is taxed in each country.hough sometimes you see a police-stop at the border (there was one at St Margrethen between Switzerland and Austria). They don’t usually check the cars, just the trucks.

We decided to stop for a break in Bregenz, an Austrian town at the side of the lake. It has an ancient history dating back to Celtic settlements over 3,000 years ago. We had a good walk around the waterfront, visiting a rather unusual-looking unfinished lakeside open-air theatre. Performances will cost €100 a seat! Ouch! Nearby was a marina where the Stadt Bregenz was moored (centre), and just past there, the town hall (RH).
We were feeling a bit hungry as we hadn't had much to eat since breakfast, so we bought some butter Bretzels – huge, butter-filled pretzels. Really nice but a bit too much butter! It gets injected into the roll in long strips about 5 mm thick! It was very welcome though as I was starting to feel quite weak and tired after all the walking an fresh air!
As it was getting on a bit and we were all rather tired, we went back to Friedrichshafen via a more inland route, and from there back to Horgenzell. We crossed into Bavaria in Germany over a river at Lindau. We had Spätzle for tea, a Swabian speciality.

South Germany

Saturday 9th April
We left the hotel not too long after breakfast. It was good that it was so close to Le Midi Station. We bought some food at a small supermarket at the railway station before making our way to the Thalys platform. The journey to Cologne takes less than two hours, and the train is very comfortable. You hardly realise just how fast the train is going. There is a digital display of the speed between the carriages. I think the fastest we went was around 170kph.

The first photo is taken on the way into Liege - the track was quite high above the streets at one point, as you can see. At the railway station was a large globe, apparently there as part of an ecological expo.
We were rather surprised when the train ground to a halt some time before we were due to arrive in Cologne. An announcement came over the loudspeakers saying that there was a problem with a train ahead of us on the line. A little while later, we were told that the track was closed to Cologne due to a demonstration. They first told us we might be delayed by up to half an hour – as there was 40 minutes between our trains, I thought we might just get there on time. But then they started saying that it could take 3/4 hour to get moving again! Oh dear, what to do? I sent our son Jeremy a text to say that we were delayed by a demonstration and that I might need him to phone our friend Ingrid who was going to meet us in Ulm if we missed our train. I only had enough money left on the phone for another text or two.
We started up again 35 minutes after stopping and soon arrived at a small platform (Stoltz Rheinland) that was covered with people – a huge collection of police in bright yellow jackets surrounding a mob of protesters. Apparently they had interfered with a previous train and so the railway company refused to let any more trains proceed until the police had got the demonstrators off the tracks. There were a few announcements about onward connections to various trains, and eventually they came to ours – they said it was being held at Platform 6.
Unfortunately we were one of the last off our train, and by the time we reached our platform, the train had already gone. On looking at the timetable, we found out that the next to Ulm was a whole 2 hours away. I sent Jeremy another text and he agreed to phone Ingrid to let her know.
We had some books to read so that kept us occupied. It wasn’t a very warm day but it was OK. The photos include one at Siegburg/Bonn station, a country town on the way to Frankfurt and two photos in Mannheim. One town before we reached Mannheim was called Waldhof and had some interesting brown and white churches. Further south we passed through some more rugged terrain – in fact it later turned out to be the Swabian Alps. Geislingen was quite a large and attractive town up in narrow valley in the mountains, with plenty of traditional houses with brown roofs and up to 3 rows of dormer windows.
We arrived in Ulm just after 5 to be met by a smiling Ingrid, her husband Bernhard and youngest daughter Friedericke. We decided that, owing to the lateness of our arrival, that we’d just go straight to their home in Horgenzell.
Unfortunately they had already left home by the time Jeremy was able to try to contact them, and the daughter Veronika who’d been left behind to take care of things tried sending them a text – but they had the cell phone switched off! Eventually, after waiting at the station without seeing us, they’d switched it on to phone home to see if there were any messages, and found out that we’d been delayed. So they decided to do a bit more shopping, much to Friedericke’s delight!
We eventually arrived around 6.30, and had a lovely meal. Afterwards, we walked to Kapel, another portion of the little village where their church is. The population of Horgenzell is around 300.

A day in Brussels

Friday 8th April
We left Addis not long after midnight local time, spending 15 minutes waiting on the runway at one point. It seemed to be rather disorganised.
One thing we noticed about the service on the airline, you don’t get any refresher towels, and the food wasn’t very good. Breakfast consisted of fruit, juice, a rather dry, small ‘muffin’ and a spam roll. The latter two were not terribly appetising!
We landed in Paris just before 7 just as the day was dawning, but had to stay on the plane as it was only a short stop. We reached Brussels 45 minutes after taking off then had a ‘long’ wait at the immigration counters – well, the Americans standing in line thought it was very long. It actually was only half an hour! It hardly took any time at all to clear immigration once we arrived at the desk, and we wandered down to the train station. It was rather hard to find the correct timetable for our train and part of one platform was closed down, so it was rather confusing. Our train actually departed from a different place to where it had been advertised, and it was only by asking a guard that we were able to catch the right one!
Once at Le Midi, I tried to find a Brussels map, but they only had a rather large and expensive one at the first place I went to. We ate some coffee and cakes before heading off to our hotel. It was easy to find with the map, but we couldn’t go straight to our room as we arrived some hours before check-in time. So we left our bags there and wandered off around the streets for a few hours. We found a nice bakers’ quite close to the hotel, selling yummy cheap food. However, he thought I was saying ‘goûte’ instead of ‘coûte’ when I was trying to find out how much something cost! We walked down the street till we found a small park to sit down in. It was a very poor area of the city, lots of rather tatty-looking buildings. There were lots of African and Middle-Eastern people and an interesting-looking Turkish-Moroccan market. We bought some really nice oranges quite cheaply at a fruit stall and carried on on our adventure. At this stage we went completely off my map!
We ended up beside a canal, and watched a long barge with six loads of gravel go past. On the stern stood a car and a small dinghy. We enjoyed watching the Pont des Hospices bridge being raised, then lowered again to let the traffic cross. The whole road was winched up on both sides.
Further on, we came to an imposing gateway with a statue of a bull on each side. Inside was a market, and on the roadside was a café. We bought some coffee then wandered around the stalls, which were starting to be packed up at only 2 pm. Mostly they sold clothes or fruit and vegetables. Some of the vendors tried to persuade us to buy!
Just past the market was a busy street with many shops, many selling hams, salamis etc. One was called the King of Ham (in French). Bruce decided to try a hotdog at one stall, but the man didn’t reheat the frankfurter and onions properly. It looked like it had been a while since he last had had a customer, which is what put me off having one too.
We were pleased to see a street name that looked familiar, we had passed the other end of it on our way to the canal. We managed to successfully find our way back onto the map again, and back to the hotel, where we were able to book in.
We went for another walk after a rest, to find somewhere to eat tea as we thought the hotel meal looked a bit pricey. We went past quite a few eateries but Bruce didn’t like the look of them. On the way back to the hotel, we passed one that had a picture in the window advertising fish and chips for about 7 Euros. That sounded pretty good to me, so we went inside. The young lady who greeted us seemed a bit taken aback when I asked for the menu, and spoke to a young man who came up. She pointed us to the tables and we were rather taken aback to see a hookah on each one. She asked whether we’d like to sit at one of these tables or in the back room. When she took us towards it, I thought it looked just like one of those opium dens you see in films – everything was red, and there were reclining curtained couches around the walls. Needless to say, we backed out pretty quickly! Then I saw the front of the blackboard that was standing in the street – on it was a picture of a hookah with a price. We’d seen one or two other places advertising them too, and at first I wasn’t too sure whether or not the picture was of a rather fancy coffee urn! Perhaps such things are legal in Belgium!
We ended up having dinner at a Turkish restaurant and that was quite an experience. We were the only non-Turkish people present and it was a very traditional-looking meal. It started with an entrée of what at first I thought were green chillies – but which turned out to be okra, and pide bread with two dips – one was very sour and salty, the other a hot chilli paste.
After a while, we were brought a huge platter each of food. Bruce had asked for a combination of meats, and I’d asked for lamb, which was very nice, rather like barbecued ribs. Both plates were heaped high with salty-sour foods, a refreshing cucumber salad, and more pide bread. We had a lovely mint tea to drink too. It cost a total of 20 Euros, which was pretty good compared to other places we’d seen, and we certainly were well-filled!

A walk to the lake

Thursday April 7th
After a good night’s sleep, we woke to a cloudy day which was slightly humid. It rained for about an hour. We watched TV in our room for an hour or so after breakfast, relaxing. We found an interesting documentary about various successful businesses and industries in different African countries. Two new sugar cane factories had been built in Mali; there is a new village project in Madagascar raising silkworms and spinning the fibre; gold is becoming much more important in Ethiopia and a group in Benin had managed to successfully source clean water for 18,000 people They said that holding public meetings, keeping technical & financial areas separate and operating transparently had caused the project to succeed.
As we were going to be flying again in the afternoon, we decided to take a walk, hoping to reach the lakeside. We set off walking up a hill past hotels, and really posh houses with tall walls topped with barbed wire, razor wire, cast-iron spears, or electric wire. Many had large gardens with plenty of flowers and trees. We saw many walls covered in creepers. The most popular plants appeared to be blue convolvulus, pale lilac and pink bougainvilleas white and orange trumpet flowers, jacaranda trees, Brunfelsia and a very unusual-looking 2-dimensional palm tree. Further over towards the lake, we walked past a large convent, several schools and a huge Roman Catholic Church.
Down the hill on the other side, we started passing through small villages whose dirt tracks were lined with dilapidated shacks and small shops, very similar to Tanzania.
Eventually we did manage to find the lake, and came across a lot of small fishing boats close to a fenced-off area housing what looked like some kind of small factory. A young man came up to us and started talking in excellent English. He actually knew where NZ is and even Wellington! Most people we have talked to in East Africa think that it is in Europe.
He said he had come from his home village to Kampala to study at Makarere University, but was taking this year off as he’d run out of money. He said that he took odd jobs and helped the fishermen to try to earn some cash so that he could start up his studies again. 100,000 Makarere University has a staggering number of students, 10,000, and they wish to increase this number by 10,000 per year up to 2015!
He told us that the building was indeed a factory that makes boats from fibreglass, much more up-market than the usual wooden plank ones. Next door to it is a Fisheries Training Institute where you can study a diploma for 2 years and then get sent to one of the lakes in East Africa to try to help the fishing industry.
The fishermen were catching Nile perch and Tilapia, but mainly small ones. The Ugandan government is going to close the lake for 5-6 months. It wants to help the fishermen to set up shambas during that time to grow their own food – but of course, they’d have to start well before the date of closure, because it usually takes several months to grow a crop of any kind!
We went for a walk past the Institute, ending up on a narrow rocky promontory. From there, we had some interesting views of the coastline and many islands. There were two camels inside the institute’s fenced enclosure that are used to give tourist rides on one of the beaches. Our friend pointed out Museveni’s house, Imperial Beach, Kampala’s water treatment plant, and the council buildings.
We wandered back to Entebbe, trying to hint that he could now leave us. However, he stayed close, showing us where he lived. We decided we’d better share some lunch with him, so bought fantas and samosas at the supermarket and sat on a seat in a small park just across the road. He actually seemed quite reluctant to eat with us, so I decided he hadn’t really been trying to cadge a free feed!
He eventually left and we continued sitting there watching the passing traffic heading to and from the airport. A couple of female goats and their kids were grazing the grass, and I was a bit alarmed when one of them took off across the road in all the traffic. The others had to follow, of course! We were amazed at how many UN vehicles kept passing by, in both directions, and how many had just one occupant. Sometimes a UN minivan would go past, and at least they usually did have a few passengers.
A drunk came and started talking to us, saying some rather strange things, so I was quite relieved when he decided to move off. He said he was so poor he could only afford ‘wine’. He showed us a plastic bag full of a pink liquid which he was carrying inside his jacket wrapped up in brown paper.
We decided to stay at the hotel until the time came for us to head to the airport. Once there, we were surprised to find that you have to go upstairs to check in. The lady at the desk in the airport lounge said to me, “We meet again!” That was quite funny!
Our boarding passes mistakenly said that the time for boarding was 5.30, an hour later than the real time! AT first I thought they’d delayed the flight, then found out that it was going to depart on time.
On asking in one of the bookshops if one could buy stamps at the airport, I was told that if I gave her my postcards, one of the other ladies would take them to the post office for me and buy the appropriate stamps. So that’s what I did, and I do hope the four I sent actually got posted!
We had some rather nice coffee there in small cups, then went to the gate to await boarding. The other passengers were mainly men!
We were flying with Ethiopian Airlines to Belgium via Addis Ababa. The Boeing 757-200 had excellent leg-room, a real plus for Bruce. All the other planes were too cramped for his long legs. He gets so uncomfortable.
There was quite a long break at Addis, and we wandered around the many shops at least twice, enjoying looking at the rather fancy-looking clothing on display. Unfortunately most of the garments had no price-tags, and I found out that they were quite expensive!
One of the ladies’ restrooms was not in a very good state of repair – the soap dispensers were only hanging on by one screw, the taps were wobbly and everything looked rather dodgy! There was a newer one in another part of the terminal.

Back to Uganda

Wednesday April 6th
We slept till about 4am, and that was it! Dogs were barking, Bruce got up, the mosques started to blare out their call to prayer, then the roosters started. A man knocked on our door at 5.40 – he may have been from hotel management, otherwise he was in the nextdoor room and had been woken by the noise of our shower. We left just after 6 am and were on the bus at 6.20. We bought a loaf of bread to eat on the way, and the bus left at 7 sharp!
There was no checking of passengers at Kyotera on the Tanzanian side of the border, and we reached Mutukula at 8.30, and only stayed there a short time. One young man in a yellow T-shirt had been tugged and pushed onto the bus by a woman, his mother? before the border. When the bus stopped at the side of the road in Uganda where a man was standing, he didn’t want to get off and the opposite to what had happened when he got on! One wonders what the story was there!
Masaka was reached at 10.30, then the outskirts of Kampala at a quarter to one. A man got up and started trying to sell medicine – in fact he made quite a few sales – of creams, pills and potions that were supposed to cure anything from baldness to impotency. He was quite amusing as he pantomimed a bit and told all these stories as testimonials – some really made me laugh and amused the other passengers too. I was kept busy outlining it all to Bruce.
Half an hour later, we neared the city centre, where the traffic had practically ground to a halt. It took another hour to reach the bus centre, which the bus couldn’t enter as there were vehicles parked in front of the gates. many of the other passengers had already got off, getting frustrated with the lack of progress – not an option for us, not knowing our whereabouts! We found the taxi stand quite easily, and soon set off for Entebbe. This time we had a much faster journey! It was a pleasant day, 26 degrees. The minibuses stop right outside the Entebbe Flight Motel so it’s a very convenient place to stay.
After dropping off our bags, we went for a walk past the nearby supermarket to the small village shopping centre. Around the taxi park are many small shops and cafés. We chose one that said it served snacks and cold drinks. Lutheran music was playing and we seemed to be the only customers. It was around 4 pm by now. The menu was a little unexpected: the ‘snacks’ were all some kind of meat or fish accompanied by chips, whereas ‘meals’ were the same thing but instead of chips, were served with ugali, matoke or various Ugandan alternatives! I asked the girl whether they had anything smaller like chapattis, and she was able to offer us samosas. We enjoyed drinking mango juice as well. Whilst we were relaxing in that cool place, we noticed a rather amusing poster on the wall. It said that if you smoked, the staff would think that you were on fire and treat you accordingly!!!!
After that break, we walked around a small food market and bought some bananas. Bruce was interested in finding out the price of some very nice looking steak at a butcher’s, and we were surprised to find out that it was quite expensive – 7,000 Ush a kilo (nearly 3USD). In Tanzania it is about Tzsh 3,000 a kilo (2 USD).
We stopped at a rather modern supermarket and bought some water as it was much cheaper than the hotel’s. We had a look around at all the different foods on display and bought some fruit juice. They have an interesting system when you leave the supermarket – you have to hand your docket over to a person near the exit doorway, who has a brief look at your purchases before waving you on. There is also a guard at the entry point. Rather different from here in NZ.
I found out that you have a choice of ordering from a menu or eating the buffet dinner at the motel, so I decided to choose from the menu rather than have to try to eat lots of food at the buffet to make the extra price worthwhile. Bruce wanted the buffet, so this put the staff in a brief quandary. Normally people eating from the menu dine in one room, and those partaking of the buffet in a 3-walled room opening onto the main courtyard. However, they decided that they could serve me my meal there as well as long as we agreed on a suitable time for dining.

Old Friends

Tuesday 5th AprilAnother disturbed night – dogs, roosters and a thunderstorm from 5 am that lasted up to 9 o’clock. There was some very heavy rain, even some hail.
It was a busy day. Bruce wanted to leave as soon as the rain stopped but I managed to delay him for a bit whilst I wrote some post cards that I’d purchased from BUDAP. We had no success trying to contact mama Hermalinda re visiting her in her village, so decided to go into town. We were due to visit Aristides later in the morning, then mama Juliana for lunch. On the way, we planned to stop by at Harvest.
We bought some oil for mama Petromulaki, but unfortunately didn’t stop in the little soko at Nyakanyasi to buy some flour and a phone voucher, believing that we’d pass a kiosk on the way to Kibeta hill. Unfortunately we’d run out of money on the phone, but had some exciting texts around midday from NZ – our little granddaughter had just started to stand up holding on to furniture (aged 10 ½ months).
We visited the plant nursery by Nyakanyasi River, which was very swollen and flooding the lower ground. The owner has good English and we had a good conversation. He told us that he’s planted 30,000 trees on his shamba!
At the corner where a path leaves the road to lead to the hill, we met baba Jeni – he told us that his wife was very sick and couldn’t come to visit us. He’s expanded his small business of repairing shoes, sandals and umbrellas to serving coffee. His wife has a coffee stall at the market but found that she didn’t get enough custom.
A few houses from the corner is mama Amina’s. She’s an Indian lady whose family came over some time back and she married a Tanzanian and has several children. One of her eldest ones came to Pre-Form One tuition at Harvest, and had excellent English and seemed to be very bright. We’d become friends with mama and she’d invited us in on one or two occasions, and always wanted to stop and chat or give us some fruit from their tiny shamba. Yasintha was home, she was going to teacher training, and had only achieved Division 3 in her Form Four exams the year before. I was a bit surprised, thinking she’d have got Div 2 quite easily. We heard that they only accept boys having Div 1 and 2 results for Teacher Training these days, but they will take girls with Div 3.
Amina went to a neighbour’s across the path and called Deborah out. She’s another young girl who we’d met in Bukoba shortly before we returned to NZ. She told us she wanted us to be her friends, and we write to each other several times a year. She studied at an English medium primary school so has good English, and passed Form Four a year or two ago. Now she is studying nursing at one of the hospitals. She was very emotional when she saw us and it is rather surprising as we only met up with her two or three times, once visiting her home to be introduced to her father who works for the local council.
We arrived at Harvest at 10.30 and were amazed at the huge increase in the number of houses on the hill. People have been building all over it! We were struck again at how unfit we were, and found we got quite puffed and had to stop a few times on the way up! We’d have been even worse if we hadn’t spent 10 days on Bumbire!
We were pleased to see that Harvest Sec School had been able to expand since we were last there, and most of the buildings looked very nice with blue-painted roofs and some nice paintwork on the walls that hadn’t been there when we last saw it. We went to the administration block – that used to be the guest house and pastor Lucas’s quarters, and were amused to see that our former bedroom was now the Director’s room. The building has been split in half – half is for administration and the other half still has some of pastor’s children living in it: three of his boys and one of the daughters. Mama and three of the other children are in Dar es Salaam and pastor does a lot of travelling. The youngest daughter is at University in Dodoma now.
We enjoyed meeting Pastor Theophil for the first time. He is married to a lovely lady called Editha whom we had met on our first African adventure in 2004. At that stage, she was helping mama Lucas with household chores, and was only about 15. On our second visit, we were quite disappointed that she’d gone back to her home village, and was going to get married. Now they have three little children aged 1, 2 and 4.
We were really surprised to hear that four of the Lucas' children (Pastor Lucas is the head of the Agape Christian Fellowship church and lived at Harvest for many years) are still at Harvest, although the oldest three are in Dar es Salaam with their mama. We had a lovely chat with Victory, and she was really sad that we would only be in Bukoba for such a short time. She said we should have stayed for a week, then we could have had lots of discussions and shared views, opinions etc. In hindsight we certainly realised that we should have planned a much shorter time on Bumbire – but Bruce thought it would be good to spend 2 Sundays there to really encourage the pastor – and a longer time in Bukoba, but it had been really hard to organise with only having cellphone numbers for a few of our contacts and in many cases, not getting any news from them at all. Usually the reason is that they have run out of money on the phone or the battery needs charging up!
Pastor Theophil texted mama Juliana to let her know we were running a bit late, and Aristides – as we had no money on our phone – and we were met by Aristides’ eldest daughter, Flia, just outside Harvest. She took us at a great rate up the hill and along the muddy paths past many shambas and small villages till we reached her father’s house. They had been forced to sell their old one and shamba due to a family dispute over the land. Now they are renting two small rooms, part of a larger house. Only the oldest and youngest child are at home at the moment, the other two are in the village with their grandfather as they can’t afford to feed all four of them. Aristides has been out of work since his accident so they have been in serious hardship with only a small income from his wife’s small business. He showed us his artificial leg which he calls Bruce’s leg – perhaps because it’s white! His stump is still quite fragile and was quite swollen and sore – he’s only had the leg a short time so may be trying to get around too much on it.
After a little taro and spiced chai, we went with Flia to mama Juliana’s, not too far away really but Flia got a little lost. She was still busy cooking as we managed to arrive about 10 minutes before she was expecting us! She is still teaching but has to cope with 120 Standard One pupils! These are in their first year of school – just imagine the chaos and impossibility of trying to get any real learning done. She said some of the better-behaved children help the struggling ones, and get somewhere, but quite a few just mess around and don’t learn anything at all. Her daughter Hilda, who studied at Harvest with us, and was my top English student, achieved Div 2 in Form Four, obtaining a B in both Maths & English. She is now studying Maths, Physics and Chemistry at High School.
Mama had let us know last year that her husband was in trouble at work. He’d been accused of being dishonest in his work (he was quite high up in the local council) – but it was a false accusation. He was taken to court and acquitted as false evidence was given against him. However, his boss decided to get rid of him and wrote him a letter of dismissal, claiming that he had indeed been dishonest and had bribed the judges. As he had had no income to be able to do such a thing – he was stood down from work after the accusations were made, the only income in the family was mama’s wages as a teacher, and she was using all of these to try to keep her children in school and to feed the family. So he was now unemployed and struggling to find another job as he wasn’t given a good reference by his employer.
We caught up with some news about others from Harvest Christian Fellowship and found out that two brothers had moved to Mwanza to set up a business. One’s wife had stayed in Bukoba as she was doing really well selling food to the students at Harvest and cooking them food.
Again we heard how sick mama Jeni was, and decided to visit her on our way back into town.
This entailed quite a long, winding route back down the hill. Unfortunately I’d not taken any photos of Harvest on the way up as I’d imagined we’d return past it again and would be able to take photos at our leisure. Teh way to mama Jeni’s took us quite far away into a very rocky area.
She lives in a very small, dilapidated hut, and was really sick. She had been well until after the mkesha on the Friday night, then became really feverish and couldn’t keep any food down. She was also full of aches and pains and could hardly sleep at night, and was too weak to get up and walk anywhere, hardly strong enough to sit up. They thought it was probably malaria. Fortunately she was able to keep fluids down and was drinking plenty of water. They are very poor and she couldn’t afford a trip to the clinic or hospital to get tested and treated. So we gave a donation to help her both get a ride on a pikipiki (motorbike) and be able to pay for treatment the next day. Unfortunately the clinic is only open in the mornings and it was late afternoon. We found out that two of her sons are now away from home selling sodas from handcarts, one is in Dar es Salaam, the other in Mwanza.
We did end up returning past Mama Amina’s again, and went inside for a brief visit as her husband was home and some more of the children. We also saw Deborah again, but she was very gloomy.
On our way back to our hotel, we met Hassan again, he was due to leave Bukoba to travel all the way to Dar and then down into South Tanzania – a very long journey. He was going to go to High School (in Tanzania a High School is where you can study forms 5 and 6 and take A-levels, Secondary Schools are just for Forms One to Four in general). He was very excited to be going with Godfrey, a top student at Harvest. For a while, they both vied with each other for marks, but in the end, Hassan only got a rather disappointing Div 3 result, and Godfrey Div 2.
We arrived back at the New Banana Hotel at 5 and sat outside with sodas. We were surprised to be greeted with the news that two ladies, mama Hermalinda and mama Spia, had come to visit us just after we’d left in the morning. I was really sad to find out that one was Mama Hermalinda who’d come on the bus to see us and invite us to her home. If only we’d stayed in our room a little longer! She’d run out of money on her phone which is why she hadn’t responded to my texts! I’d assumed that she couldn’t come into town for some reason or other.
We booked tea for seven and put our phone on to charge as the battery was getting flat. we were really happy to meet up with mama Spia again after tea. She came back specially to greet us. She has AIDS and seems to keep alive quite miraculously. From time to time she becomes so sick she is close to death’s door, but then recovers again. At least one of her children has the disease also. She was infected by her husband and has been a widow for some years now. Another widow in a similar situation had lost her eldest son to AIDS in January, we were very sad to hear that. Mama Spia and mama Hermalinda live quite close together, so they can encourage each other in the Lord. Mama Hermalinda is also a widow.
Later on we received a phone call from mama Hermalinda and I apologized profusely for not being still there in the morning and for missing her visit. I really did feel bad. We also had some nice texts from Michael wishing us a safe journey. We were to leave Bukoba early the next morning on our way to Europe.

A trip to Bukoba

Monday May 4thThis time our sleep was disturbed by a mosquito, then poor Meshaki woke up in the middle of the night coughing. There seemed to be a big discussion going on between pastor and mama, and they all seemed to go outside for some time. Meshaki was crying, and still couldn’t stop coughing. it gook ages to get back to sleep, especially as the rats were very active. One fell with a great thump in the main room, from the top of the rafters. After some wild dreams, I was woken again by the rats, then a bat – which landed on me twice! At one stage, it seemed to be being chased around the room by a rat, and that made me really nervous. I’m glad that vampire bats only live in South America, it was rather worrying to have it land on my shoulder on one occasion. Then the mosquito returned, and at 2 am when pastor’s alarm clock rang, a peal of thunder crashed out and lasted for some time. A second thunderstorm began just before 6 am.
We left the house at 7 just as the rain was stopping, aiming at reaching Rushonga in time to catch the 8 am boat. However, pastor kept stopping and looking back to the hills where black clouds were amassing. he said that yet another storm was brewing. He hoped we’d be able to reach the primary school on top of the hill.
We just got there when the rains burst – it poured for about 20 minutes then stopped as suddenly as it had begun. There were impressive displays of lightning and huge roars of thunder, some right overhead. It was too noisy to be able to hear pastor and the headmaster’s conversation across the other side of the room.
As we were now too late to reach Rushonga in time, we decided to head to another landing stage where the boat would leave from at around 8.30. Danieli ran ahead once we reached the flat near the lake to warn the boat that we were coming. They’d started to blow the horn, the signal that they were about to depart.
We were very surprised to find out after some time that pastor hadn’t joined us on the boat – on previous occasions he’s come ashore with us – but I guess it was a good cost-cutting measure, it costs 10,000 Tsh to make the round trip – a lot of money over there.
On the way to Kemondo, we stopped at two more places to pick up passengers, but unfortunately, at the second, on another island, another boat had already taken all waiting travellers and goods on board so we didn’t draw right up close to the shore. It was quite windy by this stage, and we had to stand out some way from the landing.
Once out away from the islands, the waves became quite large, and at one point, the engine stopped! This meant that we had no steering and we started to get tossed around by the waves, the boat rocking further and further over onto each side so that the water came close to coming inboard. I estimated that the swell was about 1.5 metres.
We were glad when the engine was able to be restarted, and we soon landed at Kemondo, at 10.40 am – a quick trip really.
We went to a small cafe where we’d picked up a snack on previous occasions – but as it was too early for lunch, they only had 2 left-over chapattis from breakfast – but these were really nice so we enjoyed them with some Fanta.
Whilst we were there, a man came in, claiming to have seen us in Bukoba a few times when we were living there. He said he used to work at the Fido Dido but now worked taking tourists around and organising trips for them. He said he could speak German well, as well as English.
He told us he could get us a ride in a taxi for only 1,000 Tsh each, which we thought was much cheaper than the fare we’d paid with Gayle which was Tsh 1,500 each. So we agreed – although I did say that we’d much prefer to go in a daladala.
However, once he hailed a taxi that had a couple of spare seats in it, it appeared that he himself along with his elderly father would ride with us to Bukoba, and that we’d pay for all 4! There were already several people in the car, but the driver pushed most of them out, much to their anger and our horror – and I was about to remonstrate with him and say that we’d go by daladala and to let the other passengers use the taxi when he slammed the boot lid down on our cases and shoved us into the car. It was a squash – seven or eight of us in total! We were glad when 2 got out part-way to Bukoba, and another one on the outskirts, so that we ended up the journey in a little more comfort. However, the driver only took us to the taxi stand, not to our hotel – but as it wasn’t much further, we decided to walk. It proved to be a little hard to shake off our ‘Fido Dido’ friend and his father, but eventually, once at the hotel, they left and we were able to proceed to our room in peace.
As it was only lunch time, we went to the Rose Cafe for a snack and were warmly greeted by the proprietor, who knows us quite well from our Bukoba days. Many of these cafes have some rather unusual-looking menus – you can get ‘paper’ steak and chips, bittings (snacks) including ‘burns’, and in Uganda one was selling ‘diary’ food.
We visited the main market – the Soko Kuu – where we had had a number of friends including an elderly lady who sells fruit, eggs and vegetables. We bought some fruit from her and had a good chat. She had had a very sore, swollen foot for some time. One of our ex-students just happened to pass by and looked very surprised to see us but didn’t stop to do more than say hello. Apparently he’s doing very well, has now completed Form 4.
Inside the main building, we went to look for our old friends, the Fataks – but they were not there. A neighbouring stallholder told us that they’d gone to Arusha. We were greeted by several people who wanted to know how we were.
We started off to go to the lake to find an organisation called BUDAP – the Bukoba Disabled Assistance Project – as we’d put a friend of ours in touch with them and wanted to find out more about them and see the project up close.
After a bit of wandering around and asking some passersby, we found it by the lakeshore – an office containing a few of the items the disabled members produce – belts, jandals, postcards, jewellery and traditional drums. The man I’d corresponded with via email was very welcoming and told us a bit more about the project, but said that it is really difficult to continue, as, once trained-up, the members tend to end up starting up their own small businesses and cease bringing in income to the project. They are looking for more sponsors, as they are lacking tools and equipment, and are thinking of working more with widows. The project was started with the intention of helping the many victims of polio to learn a handcraft and thus be able to sustain themselves and their families.
Our friend Aristides Petromulaki had been one of the fundis that worked on the building site at Harvest alongside Bruce. He’d become quite friendly, and had invited us to his home shortly before we returned to NZ. There, we were able to share the Gospel, and we heard a few months later that he’d become a Christian, also his wife and children. Unfortunately he then fell on hard times – he had an accident whilst working chipping stone, and had to have an operation on one foot. We’d sent over some money to pay for the operation because we knew the family couldn’t afford it. Unfortunately this operation had left the wound infected, and over the course of almost a year, his foot had swollen up, then his leg right up to his knee and it of course became extremely painful. He delayed getting medical help, believing his leg to be infested by a demon, but we assured him that if it were due to that reason, that he could command the evil spirit to leave in Jesus’ Name – and if he found no relief, he needed to get medical help urgently.
He had a second operation after Christmas – they amputated his leg up to close to his knee, and he started a long period of recovery. Thanks to our putting him in touch with BUDAP, he was able to get their advice and help, and ended up going to Uganda to get an artificial leg. Unfortunately this cost him a huge sum of money that he had to borrow.
Whilst on the way back to our hotel, we met a mama in the street, an old friend of ours and retired nurse, mama Hermalinda Gabriel. She was one of the people that we hadn’t been able to let know about our visit, so it was a special joy to meet with her like that, especially as she now lives in a different place from when we were last in Bukoba. She was really keen for us to go to her home the next day, and gave us her phone number.
We had a lovely dinner at the hotel of fish, chips and salad. I enjoyed drinking the spiced milk that you were supposed to put coffee in – but I liked it just as it was! Unfortunately we got well-bitten by mosquitoes every time we entered that restaurant!

Last Sunday on the island

Sunday April 3rd It started thundering early on and it rained until about 9.30. A rat had come into our bedroom around 4 am, making me rather nervous, imagining another fall! We had bananas for breakfast today, a welcome change from cold rice!
The service lasted 2 hours again, and I translated for Bruce. I wanted to take some photos before and after but the camera was playing up again. The congregation was really small this time – just the Mugaruras, us, Danieli and one of another family’s daughters. I took a photo on the way home to show the tall grasses that hide the paths in many parts of the island.Danieli brought us some coca cola to drink as a gift – we were quite glad as we’d run out of water again! We had a snack of bananas to go with it, but lunch wasn’t till just before we left for a service at Fideli’s. The local mourning custom is to hold services and prayer meetings for 9 days after a Christian’s death, and many people come and visit the family and even stay with them during this time to comfort them. Mama said we’d have to hurry as they fine people who turn up late!
The service started at 4.30 pm, and lasted about an hour. The preaching was very vigorous, given by Danieli’s father-in-law. He knew some English and chatted with us a little. As the camera was behaving a bit better, I took photos of Fideli’s family and the grave to try to make up for Saturday.
Tea was nice: chicken, rice and sweet potato.

A Tanzanian funeral

Saturday April 2nd 2011
Unfortunately it had been rather a bad night – the rats were very active, Meshaki had many coughing fits, Bruce was restless and my pillow seemed lumpier than ever – in the end I gave up on it and put it off the bed. Like the mattress, it was just filled with straw. As the head of the mattress was quite raised, I didn’t miss it very much at all and just put my head on my dressing gown.
It was a day that started with bright sunshine, but some clouds came over quite fast. We were glad that all our washing got dry apart from our underwear, which of course was languishing indoors!
We had a very interesting breakfast – passion fruit, the guavas, cold rice and eggs. Yum.
At about 10 am, we walked down to the stream then up the hill the other side to Fideli’s. There were so many people there and still more on the way, from every part of the island as well as perhaps some of the smaller ones off-shore. The men congregated outside near a large fire, and the women sat inside in the vestibule on the dried grass and mats.
Mama and I sat indoors with the women for quite some time before going outside. But first we had to go into a tiny room to greet Fideli and a strange mama (I think she was a pastor from a neighbouring church). The old lady’s body was lying wrapped up on a mat on one side. I tried to encourage Fideli, who had been weeping, by assuring him that his mother was now with the Lord and was rejoicing in heaven, free from her weak, sick body at last. She had been a keen Christian for several years.
The ladies were all quietly chatting, some looking after small children or breastfeeding babies. Small groups of people came in, greeted us all round, then filed into the little room to view the body and comfort Fideli. The mamas were very surprised that I would choose to sit with them, so mama mchungaji explained that I was her friend. They talked a little about mama Christine, the American doctor, and how much they liked her, she was always so hospitable and friendly.
The men outside took turns to dig the grave and to help make the coffin. Bruce spent some time with them with pastor and another man who knew a little English.
Eventually mama decided it was time to return home for lunch, which was ready at 1.30. We had been told that the funeral would start around 2, so we ate in haste – sweet potato, rice and fish. I was surprised just how much rice Danieli and pastor ate! They didn’t leave anything behind this time!
We were very happy to meet an old friend from previous visits, Amin. He lives in a small village at the end of the island past the AIM church and clinic. He and his wife now have 2 children, I think.
Mama had to walk up the hill carrying a bundle of dry grass – all the women had been asked to make a contribution. At first I’d assumed she meant that they each had to take some food or tealeaves – but it appears it was dried grass for the funeral. Other people did take food with them because many would be staying with the family for at least the next night or two.
When we arrived back at Fideli’s, we sat outside on a log under a silk bush which had just started flowering – very pretty. We chatted with some children who told us that the funeral wouldn’t start till about 4 pm. It looked like there were at least 60 people gathered on grass and wooden slabs on the ground outside. The sun had got really hot and I felt like I was getting quite burnt – ouch! It was quite hard to stay in the shade as the sun kept moving round.
At around 3.30 people started gathering outside the house, and many of the men went indoors. The mama’s body was brought out from the little room and placed in the coffin. The broody hen we had noted a few days earlier made a grand entrance during the singing of a hymn, and everyone had to leave her a path to walk through. As there was not enough room inside for everyone to gather, some of us stayed outside whilst several songs were sung and some prayers made. Then everyone trooped outside again and sat down near the grave. I’d been asked to take many photos as a reminder of the occasion, but unfortunately, the camera decided to go on strike, and I was not feeling very comfortable with photographing such an event. As Bruce had been asked to speak, he was standing at the head of the grave with pastor M and another pastor, and I was asked to join them – but had to stand behind them as there was no room – it was not a good position for taking photos!
The coffin was placed in the grave straight away, then we sang some songs and a prayer was made before Bruce gave an encouraging message, with Pastor M translating. He did get stuck a couple of times and occasionally rather garbled the message but I didn’t try correcting him, not wanting to do anything that might be misconstrued. Overall he was quite accurate!
Pastor was the first to throw some clods of earth on the grave, then all the men took turns tossing a few shovelfuls of earth on it. One young man got rather carried away, and tossed the earth so hard that people close by got spattered. Once the grave was filled in, the mamas brought bundles of cut grass and laid them around it, then some of them gave flowering plants to the little children who planted them on the grave.
We were a bit surprised when the island chairman stood up at the end of the service and gave a formal notice about a collection of money for the local schools. It caused quite a bit of dissension amongst those present. He told them it was a government edict, not his own idea – and that it would mean that the school would be theirs, not the government’s. It kind of seemed a bit odd to us to have such an announcement at the end of a funeral, but as pastor noted, it was a good occasion as the whole village was present.
We went back past the Mugaruras’, continuing up the hill to the very top to see a site that they’d like to purchase and use as a life-skills training centre for the locals. Bruce thinks they could run a school to train people in various skills such as starting and running a small business, using better agricultural practices, Bible teaching, etc etc. They would really love it if we would return and teach there. They say I could teach English to all ages and would get students from all over the island! The cost of a few hectares of land would be at most a few hundred dollars. They would be prepared to make the bricks and start building, and to plant a shelter belt around the outside. They reckoned it was an ideal spot, being fertile land – although it was pretty rocky so I was doubtful about the depth of topsoil present. There certainly were plenty of rocks to use for foundations! The biggest problem would be water. If you had to go all the way down the hill to the stream below the Mugaruras’, it would be a huge task, and it didn’t look like there was a closer stream on the other side of the hill. It would increase the cost of building hugely to put on an iron roof and put up some kind of water tank. Transporting one up there would be difficult so you might have to build one out of the stones and make sure it was water-tight with a good concrete lining. Lots of things to think about, but certainly not a project we could do in a hurry. We’d need to try to get backing from a missionary organisation, partly for our own protection and support, as well as do a heap of research re what might be feasible. One possibility could be to see whether AIM would help us as they already have missionaries on the island and perhaps such a project could complement their medical work. Life is hard for those who are not fishermen, and good sources of income hard to get. Even the fishermen might find life rather tough shortly, as the government wants to put a 3-month moratorium on fishing in Lake Victoria to try to build up fish stocks again. It is becoming harder and harder to find the large fish needed for export, and the fishermen are catching and selling far too many small fish on the local trade.
Before a fairly late tea at 8.30 of ugali and beans, i had an opportunity to speak with Julietta on the phone. At first, I spoke with her uncle, who speaks good English, but unfortunately the battery went flat after a while so I couldn’t say much to Julietta. She would have loved to have been able to travel to Kemondo to meet us off the boat, but unfortunately she couldn’t afford the bus fare. She has learnt how to use a sewing machine so is helping with the family finances. Her little baby, Christina (named after me!), is doing well.

A walk to the church and a death in the neighbourhood

Friday April 1st
The day started off quite windy which made it quite cold. It was really gloomy, wet and thundery from early on till about 2 pm. This made it hard for mama to get a fire going in the jiko, so we didn’t have breakfast until 11 am. It was the usual cold rice and hot chai. I first noticed a rather large yellow stain on the big bowl of rice in the middle of the table, and thought that either mama had used the mchuzi spoon to get it out of the pot the night before – or perhaps there was a more sinister reason. I made sure that I selected rice from another part of the bowl. However, I didn’t notice something rather nasty until I looked down at my bowl, ready to eat. There were mouse droppings in the rice! Bruce noticed my reluctance to start eating, and threw one of the offending items out the window, unfortunately drawing pastor’s attention to the problem. I left a small portion on the edge of my plate containing another unwanted addition to my meal! I must admit it was rather hard to eat the rest!
Once the weather cleared in the afternoon, we did our washing and then walked up the hill to the church to have a look around. I was really glad that I had enough energy to climb the steep hill – I had thought of trying a short walk on the flat the day before but a good opportunity hadn’t really presented itself. We went round the back of the new building to where the old one used to be, and found the site completely overgrown, covered in young trees, cassava and passionfruit vines.
The new building has been surrounded by young pine trees to act as a windbreak, but we thought they had been planted far too close to it for safety. They say that the winds can be strong enough to lift off a roof if you build on the hilltops of Bumbire, but you don’t really want the branches close enough to touch the roof or to fall on top of it.
As we turned away from the site, we were amused at the antics of a long-tailed bird we had observed on previous occasions, but never so close at hand. It has quite a small body, but has the longest tail i have ever seen on a bird that size. It uses it to counterbalance itself when feeding on the tops of the long grass stems that can grow to nearly 2 metres high. It flew ahead of us along the church’s drive to the main path along the crest of the hill, but then turned away. We were quite disappointed, but really thrilled to have seen it so close to us.
There seemed to be many birds out and about today. We have often been amazed at the sheer variety of birds in Tanzania, and some are really spectacular or have rather unusual calls.
We had lunch at 3.30 – matoke, fish, rice and supu. Danieli came round later on, and said that he had really bad toothache, and in fact, his face was quite swollen on one side. We had brought some antibiotics with us that Bruce had been given but not used as they had to be changed to another kind to treat an infection he’d picked up in NZ, and so we were very willing to give Danieli the 5-day course. He also complained of his little children (the oldest two are aged 7 and 8 years, the youngest is only 18 months old) coughing at night, till they almost vomited. At first we thought of whooping cough, but as he said they were really well during the daytime, we decided it was probably due to the cold nights sleeping on mats on the floor. Meshaki also had this problem which cost him a lot of sleep at times.
We were talking outside the jiko, and I noticed just how precarious the whole structure looked. Bruce had helped pastor with part of the framework four years ago when it was being built as an alternative to the rather cave-like structure that mama was cooking in. Now after such a short time, it is becoming unsafe, and pastor is worried lest mama gets buried under the building should it decide to collapse. At present, one of the walls is propped up by a strong branch, but that only supports part of the wall, and when the roof is wet with rain and the walls take on water too, it becomes much more dangerous.
We received news from Fideli’s house – his mother was really bad now. She had been unable to move at all the previous day and could no longer speak. Obviously her trip to the clinic had come far too late to save her, and our prayers for her healing and recovery were not answered. Pastor and mama decided to visit and spend some time with her.
Whilst they were away, Fideli’s second son, Meshaki I, came down to let us know that his grandmother had gone home. He’s the boldest of the five, and would often come to the house and, when I was lying sick on the bed, greet me through the net curtain that covered the doorway. When the front door was open, it was possible to see right inside the little bedroom through this curtain, it was no barrier at all. One had to be really quick in the mornings to get dressed before anyone else came into the living room and out the front door!
The Mugaruras returned a couple of hours’ later saying that she had passed away whilst they were there after they had prayer for her. They had stayed to help bathe her body and clothe it in clean clothes ready for the funeral the next day. The church had been open for prayer when we visited it earlier in the afternoon, but now it had to be closed again as there would be no mkesha – an all-night prayer meeting. Danieli went off up the hill to do this. Instead, people would go to spend the night with Fideli and his family.
Pastor and mama had returned to Fideli’s house, at first saying they might stay the night there. However, they came home around 9.15 and we had a dinner of cassava, rice and fish. I was able to eat a good meal this time, my appetite had almost returned to normal. Danieli was still around and about, and brought us two guavas – we decided to eat them for breakfast although they looked rather green.

Differing viewpoints and work on the shamba

Thursday March 31st 2011
Another thunderstorm from 6.30, which lasted into the early afternoon again. The day stayed cool until the sun came out around 5 pm.
Breakfast was the standard cold rice and chai – and I still struggled to eat it. On the other side of the table was a bowl containing some left-over sweet potato, but I was too shy to ask pastor if I could have a piece, and he ended up eating them all up.
We had ugali and beans for lunch. I was really hungry and ate quite a lot – so much so that I felt a bit queasy for the rest of the afternoon! Oh dear! Bruce didn’t enjoy the beans as much. Ugali is a staple food of many parts of Tanzania and Kenya. It is made from white maize flour and water, and is cooked until it is very stiff and turned out in a mound for everyone to pull pieces off to eat with the mchuzi. On its own, it is quite tasteless, but with mchuzi becomes quite edible. The Maasai have a variant of this made with sugar and fat, and it is quite tasty on its own.
In the afternoon, we went outside once the rain cleared to watch pastor working on the shamba. He was trimming old leaves and other old plant material on the stems of his banana palms. You have to do this once or twice a year. He also planted a few new ones. He says that to grow good bananas, you need plenty of manure. He was using dung from the area where the goats are tethered.We watched him selecting banana stems for planting. You can either take a stem from a banana palm that has already fruited and cut it right back, or use a new one growing from the base of the plant. Each stem only lasts one year, then dies after it has fruited so you usually cut them down afterwards. New shoots grow out from the side of the old base and will be flowering and fruiting that same year. So you can get quite an ‘orchard’ growing if you take the time to propagate them and don’t let hens or pigs destroy the bulbous stem bases and new shoots.
Some of the palms were diseased – when you remove the surplus leafy material from the bulb at the base of the stem, you might see some brownish streaks. If you cut into the stem, you’ll find some beetles or other pests inside or an area of rot. Pastor had to throw out a few like this, but he found quite a few healthy plants too.
Before putting the stem into the hole, you have to trim it really well of all surplus material and cut off most of the old roots if it’s an old stem, or trim back the top hard if it’s a new one. Then you replace the soil around the hole, and mound it well up, leaving a depression for water to collect and soak in. Mulching the mounds is very important too. We had been very impressed with Fideli’s neatly-made mounds, covered with grass mulch.
We also watched pastor layering coffee plants. If you bend over the stems and tie them down, they will grow lots of new branches from the top surface of each stem, and so you can vastly increase the yield of each bush. He has been planting coffee as the prices have gone up quite a lot, and so he hopes to be able to improve the family’s income.
They also have a small plantation of sugar cane near the stream, and each year, cut it and send the stems to the mainland. He says they’d get far more for it if they had a crusher to extract the juice.
The long rains last until May, then it gets really hot, with some rain off and on. They can plant beans and other vegetables in August.
We enjoyed watching some hawks hunting around the shambas – one even sat over our heads in a tree. We saw one swooping down then returning with something in its claws. It flew far away, presumably to its nest.
I helped Meshaki with the goats this time as Rosemary wasn’t around. I asked him to show me how they are usually tied up, but he just stood there – so I was left to my own devices. I was glad that they didn’t escape!
We had another new addition to the menu – matoke (cooked green bananas) – as well as rice, fish and chai. It was nice but I couldn’t eat much, having eaten too much for lunch!
It had been a long, slow, rather boring day, being kept indoors in the morning during the rain, and then just watching pastor on the shamba. Mama had proudly shown us her two pigs, one of which loves rolling over onto its back for her to tickle its tummy! It was funny to watch. She doesn’t eat any meat or chicken, although she doesn't mind preparing and cooking them. She laughed when I said she must be very soft-hearted!
At one stage during the afternoon, we ended up talking about different viewpoints re population growth and contraception. She said that their viewpoint is that it is a sin to limit the size of a family as God told us to fill the earth with people. But I said that some countries were already having serious problems trying to feed all their people and is it fair to overpopulate a nation and thus put people into hardship? I also said that many people, and not just in the West, feel that it is irresponsible to keep on having babies without putting any limits on family size, because in many cases, people cannot afford to feed them all let alone send them to school etc. Others choose to limit their families owing to having had serious problems giving birth, or when there’s a family history of inherited deformities or serious disease. Still others can’t even have children due to infertility, and even pastor and mama only have two children.
With many disturbances during the night – rats, Bruce’s early morning wander, and a lumpy pillow – I ended up spending some more time thinking about these things.