A train journey down the Rhine River

Tuesday April 12th
A neighbour called Brunhilde came to pick us up at 8.30 to take us to Ravensburg to catch our train to Koblenz. She arrived early enough to take us on a quick drive around the old city walls in the centre of town. We were a bit sad we hadn’t had time to go round on foot and have a proper look. Back in the Middle Ages, it had its own laws and was often under attack, so many towers were built, hence its nickname 'City of Towers'
The train arrived and departed punctually and off we went to Ulm via Biberach. The countryside was mostly very flat with many open ditches. After changing trains, the land became hillier and we were fascinated by the terraced vineyards on the steep hills near Stuttgart.
From Mannheim (another change of train)the country was flatter again with plenty of market gardens until we reached the Rhine River at Bingen. Now came the most interesting part of the journey, the Rhine Valley. It really is beautiful. Not only do you see all the river traffic from massive barges to pleasure craft (pic 1), but you also catch glimpses of ancient castles and towers on the hillsides and on a few islands too(pic 2). The sky gradually clouded up and there were some heavy showers after Loreley (pic 3). AFter passing through or by many villages and towns, we reached the end of this part of the trip at Bingen. From there, it was only a short hop to Koblenz.

It was only a chilly 10 degrees when we arrived at the station, and when we went for a walk near the hotel, it started to rain, then hail, so we ducked into the only coffee shop that we could see. It was very tiny and the African manager was smoking. We wished we could duck straight back out again, but the weather was too nasty. The coffee was not very nice either, so we were glad when the rain and hail eased off enough for us to return to the fresh air. It was so cold that we decided to cut our walk short and returned to the hotel to rest in our room.
After a while, we decided to go in search of a map of the town, having not found one either at the railway station or in the hotel lobby. We soon found the rather small information centre nearby. It was so full of people it was difficult to access the brochure stands lining one wall - nothing suitable! Bruce decided to wait outside as the queues for service were so long and slow-moving. When I eventually reached the counter, I saw some maps there and picked one up - such a long wait for a 2-second pick-up! Unfortunately the map just detailed the sites of the upcoming Floral Festival which was due to start the day after we left. Back at the hotel again, we spied some maps - good ones! If only we’d asked there first!!!

A quiet day in Horgenzell

Monday April 11th
We slept until 8 as we were so tired! Oh dear! It was yet another lovely fine day. We didn’t really feel like doing too much, so we walked with Ingrid to Uncle Otto’s to get some potatoes. He runs a small organic farm, which doesn’t earn very much money but provides an interesting lifestyle. His paid employment gives him as much in two to three months as he gets from the farm in a whole year.

We went into the barn to see the livestock - a pen of zebu-cross steers, and two pens of Simmental bulls (two different age-groups). Another part housed German large white pigs. The boar was huge! The piglets are weaned at six weeks, then sold on for fatterning another six weeks later. The cattle were due to be turned out shortly having spent many months indoors. They are fed a lot of silage when housed, which is quite time-consuming. Someone had had fun carving a log to look like a pig!
Outside again, we started chatting with Otto's wife. It was interesting to hear that their eldest daughter had actually spent eleven months in NZ and Australia, so they were very happy to meet some real Kiwis.
During the afternoon we just read books before going out for a walk around and about Horgenzell before tea. Photos: Kapell church; Typical countryside; "be careful" bear in Horgenzell; memorial near Festewegen.








In this part of Germany there are many small villages (3-400 inhabitants). Many of the houses are surrounded by a small block of land of just a few hectares in size.
Between the villages is farmland, much of it planted our with apple trees, closely spaced and hard-pruned. You can see some in the photograph of Horgenzell below. Each village has one or two businesses, but many people have a job in town to supplement the meagre income from the land. Everyone knows which village to go to if they want a blacksmith, and which one you go to if you want your tractor repairing!
Photos: Horgenzell in the distance; an old timbered house near Uncle Otto's, the Meschenmosers' house.






The houses are quite distinctive, often having three to four floors with a huge roof with eaves that almost touch the ground. The size can be a little illusory as part of the lower floor is often a stable or barn for cattle or other livestock.
Many people are closely related – Bernhard’s relatives mostly live in Horgenzell or in the nearby villages, but Ingrid’s family lives a little further afield.








As it was such a lovely warm day, reaching 22 deg after a cool 4 deg start, we decided to have a barbecue. Bernhard had the job of getting the fire ready, and Ingrid and I had fun making damper - hers from a yeast dough and mine from a scone-type mix, which they really liked. The tripod frame used to be used for stooking hay! The neighbour's Norwegian Fiord ponies were quite interested in the proceedings at times.

An amazing day

Sunday 10th April
As there was no church service today, the Meschenmosers’ gave us a choice of either visiting Säntis in Switzerland or going on a boat trip on Lake Constance, the third-largest freshwater lake in Europe. We decided that visiting the Alps would be more exciting, especially as it meant travelling into Switzerland AND a boat trip!

First we drove to Friedrichshafen on Lake Constance and briefly visited the Zeppelin Museum as the ferry wasn’t due to leave for some time. We looked at the displays in the foyer. Zeppelins are still made in various sizes, some are used for tourist flights. If you look closely at the LH photo, you may be able to see a model being played on by children outside the museum.
Walking by the side of the lake, we saw a nesting swan so close to the pathway. What a brave bird to nest so close to humans in such an exposed spot!
It was a lovely calm day on the lake and we could see the Säntis in the distance. It is the highest of the Appenzell Alps at 2502 m above sea level. We had even been able to see it (just) from the Meschenmosers’ house as the sky was so clear that morning. It was fun looking back to the German side – there was a castle on the outskirts of Friedrichshafen (pic top R) - and ahead to misty Switzerland. You can see the other ferry boat heading away from the Swiss side in the photo below left. Eventually we reached Switzerland at Romanshorn, a very attractive-looking place (centre pic).
We were soon driving off the boat, and then proceeded on our way. At first we passed many orchards. The grass was full of dandelions and other flowers. We had noticed the rather (to our eyes) unkempt-looking lawns in Germany and were told that while some people have ‘English' lawns (that’s to say they keep them short!) many prefer a more natural look and enjoy the wildflowers that come up. There were certainly plenty of them! We also passed many cyclists - what hard work to climb those hills!
We passed through many towns and villages on the way to the Alps - Rorschach seemed quite large, and the houses were timbered and had shuttered windows. We saw a Zeppelin in the sky! I didn’t like St Gallen very much, it seemed quite ugly – there were lots of ultra-modern multi-storeyed buildings. Even in the older part of town, the buildings towered up 6 or 7 storeys, but at least they were more attractive to look at. It's the largest city in Eastern Switzerland.

As we drew closer to the mountains, the scenery became more and more interesting. Smaller towns and villages such as Urnäsch, Herisau and Appenzell led us closer and closer to our destination. It was so lovely to see the little mountain chalets, Brown Swiss cattle, small farms dotted all over the plentiful green grass, with dark pine forests and the snowy peaks providing a pleasing contrast.

When we arrived at the foot of the Säntis it was so awe-inspiring to stand in the road near the cable car depot and to look up the mountain (LH pic). What would it be like to go all the way up there? We were soon to find out.







It was simply amazing! From time to time we’d cross over a sheer rockface, and on all sides you could see mountains. The snow soon covered everything and we had the most incredible views in the clear air. The car park soon looked really tiny and the people like little ants. The cable car was really large and can hold up to 60 people, but it wasn’t too full that day. It was a great way to travel and not at all scary. LH picture is the view back down to the car park near the top. Centre - view from top, RH sheer face at terminal.
The terminal building has several stories and includes conference rooms, restaurants, viewing platforms and a rock and mineral collection from around the world. Unfortunately there were no examples from New Zealand.

Once we went outside, the views were absolutely stunning. In one spot a large panoramic view engraved into a metal plaque showed the peaks that are visible in six countries: Italy, Austria, France, Germany, Lichtenstein and of course Switzerland. The land slopes down towards France and Germany but we could see some of the high alps in the others. Way over in the distance we could just make out Lake Constance (LH pic). One interesting mountain with a distinctive shape was the Altmann (centre), 2,435 m above sea level, and further north is the Churfirsten group (RH pic), a range of mountains whose beautifully scalloped peaks rise up into the sky.
As the day went on, it started to cloud up a little but we had a great time. It had been a lovely warm temperature of about 20-21 deg down by the lake but was only 5 degrees up on the mountain, 2007 m above sea level. Once the clouds started to thicken, a cold wind sprung up and we soon started wanting to seek shelter.
From one side of the complex you can descend through a partial tunnel in the rock - part of the outer wall is of glass so you can see outside – or into the snow that was covering it. It was really cold in there. On the inside wall were placed various pieces of equipment used over 50 years ago by alpine guides. The tunnel leads to the mountain guide quarters. Guides have been active on the mountain for well over a century. There is are tables set out on a small terrace where you can enjoy a cup of coffee or light meal. We did just that and it was most welcome.
You could just sit back and relax, gazing at the tremendous views. Leading down from the buildings were paths leading to various places, with signposts telling you how many hours it’d take you to get to the other mountains and villages. If you want to walk/climb up or down the Säntis, it is supposed to take you 4 hours. It takes about 1/2 hour by cable car!

The complex also has an important weather station with a huge tower that was too difficult to photograph adequately (LH pic). it was interesting to look at however.
We also enjoyed watching the Alpine Jackdaws (centre) that liked visiting the outdoor restaurants and were having an amazing time soaring on the thermals up the side of the main building (RH pic).
We decided to leave around 4pm as we were starting to feel quite cold. We returned by a different route, driving around the side of the lake passing through a small section of Austria before reaching Germany again.







It was amazing how the countryside suddenly opened out into a broad, flat valley, bordered by snow-capped mountains – the Rhine. In one place we saw a cog railway that went up a steep hillside in a little gorge. I was quite surprised to see a vineyard or two in Switzerland, I'd always imagined it to be too cold! Pics: Urnäsch, Rhine valley scene, Altstadt.
It was interesting to find out that the Swiss still prefer to use their francs rather than the Euro. There is a hefty annual fee of E100 if you want to use the motorways there! It you don’t buy the ticket, it might cost you 2-300 Euros just to make one trip.
It’s often quite difficult to tell just when you cross the borders in Europe - unless your cellphone decides to tell you you've just joined a new exchange. Ours did this when we crossed from Belgium to Germany. We did notice that there were a lot of curved tops on the chimneys in Austria which was different from the Swiss architecture. Of course, place names change too, so if you know your languages, it does help. At some borders there is a police check-point but they usually only stop trucks. There was one between Austria and Germany.
We stopped to fill the car with petrol once we'd crossed into Austria. It was quite interesting to see the different prices between the diffent countries. It's cheaper to buy in Austria so many people make a special trip across the border just to fill up the car! The differences in price are caused by the way petrol is taxed in each country.hough sometimes you see a police-stop at the border (there was one at St Margrethen between Switzerland and Austria). They don’t usually check the cars, just the trucks.

We decided to stop for a break in Bregenz, an Austrian town at the side of the lake. It has an ancient history dating back to Celtic settlements over 3,000 years ago. We had a good walk around the waterfront, visiting a rather unusual-looking unfinished lakeside open-air theatre. Performances will cost €100 a seat! Ouch! Nearby was a marina where the Stadt Bregenz was moored (centre), and just past there, the town hall (RH).
We were feeling a bit hungry as we hadn't had much to eat since breakfast, so we bought some butter Bretzels – huge, butter-filled pretzels. Really nice but a bit too much butter! It gets injected into the roll in long strips about 5 mm thick! It was very welcome though as I was starting to feel quite weak and tired after all the walking an fresh air!
As it was getting on a bit and we were all rather tired, we went back to Friedrichshafen via a more inland route, and from there back to Horgenzell. We crossed into Bavaria in Germany over a river at Lindau. We had Spätzle for tea, a Swabian speciality.

South Germany

Saturday 9th April
We left the hotel not too long after breakfast. It was good that it was so close to Le Midi Station. We bought some food at a small supermarket at the railway station before making our way to the Thalys platform. The journey to Cologne takes less than two hours, and the train is very comfortable. You hardly realise just how fast the train is going. There is a digital display of the speed between the carriages. I think the fastest we went was around 170kph.

The first photo is taken on the way into Liege - the track was quite high above the streets at one point, as you can see. At the railway station was a large globe, apparently there as part of an ecological expo.
We were rather surprised when the train ground to a halt some time before we were due to arrive in Cologne. An announcement came over the loudspeakers saying that there was a problem with a train ahead of us on the line. A little while later, we were told that the track was closed to Cologne due to a demonstration. They first told us we might be delayed by up to half an hour – as there was 40 minutes between our trains, I thought we might just get there on time. But then they started saying that it could take 3/4 hour to get moving again! Oh dear, what to do? I sent our son Jeremy a text to say that we were delayed by a demonstration and that I might need him to phone our friend Ingrid who was going to meet us in Ulm if we missed our train. I only had enough money left on the phone for another text or two.
We started up again 35 minutes after stopping and soon arrived at a small platform (Stoltz Rheinland) that was covered with people – a huge collection of police in bright yellow jackets surrounding a mob of protesters. Apparently they had interfered with a previous train and so the railway company refused to let any more trains proceed until the police had got the demonstrators off the tracks. There were a few announcements about onward connections to various trains, and eventually they came to ours – they said it was being held at Platform 6.
Unfortunately we were one of the last off our train, and by the time we reached our platform, the train had already gone. On looking at the timetable, we found out that the next to Ulm was a whole 2 hours away. I sent Jeremy another text and he agreed to phone Ingrid to let her know.
We had some books to read so that kept us occupied. It wasn’t a very warm day but it was OK. The photos include one at Siegburg/Bonn station, a country town on the way to Frankfurt and two photos in Mannheim. One town before we reached Mannheim was called Waldhof and had some interesting brown and white churches. Further south we passed through some more rugged terrain – in fact it later turned out to be the Swabian Alps. Geislingen was quite a large and attractive town up in narrow valley in the mountains, with plenty of traditional houses with brown roofs and up to 3 rows of dormer windows.
We arrived in Ulm just after 5 to be met by a smiling Ingrid, her husband Bernhard and youngest daughter Friedericke. We decided that, owing to the lateness of our arrival, that we’d just go straight to their home in Horgenzell.
Unfortunately they had already left home by the time Jeremy was able to try to contact them, and the daughter Veronika who’d been left behind to take care of things tried sending them a text – but they had the cell phone switched off! Eventually, after waiting at the station without seeing us, they’d switched it on to phone home to see if there were any messages, and found out that we’d been delayed. So they decided to do a bit more shopping, much to Friedericke’s delight!
We eventually arrived around 6.30, and had a lovely meal. Afterwards, we walked to Kapel, another portion of the little village where their church is. The population of Horgenzell is around 300.